marți, 22 aprilie 2014

A day in New York


(photos in next post... don't ask me why, technical reasons :) )

In the morning at 7:30, with the bike reassembled the day before, I grab a coffee & a muffin from the hostel bar to "get me going" for the long day ahead, then I proceed to retrace my steps from yesterday over the Queensboro bridge back into Manhattan with the plan of exploring more of Central Park, and then the area south of it where all the interesting things are located.

When I tried to mount my smart phone holder on the handlebars I discovered I don't have the right Allen key to for it (it's a weird 2,5 size not found on most multitools including mine). So first stop is one of the many bicycle shops in Manhattan, where I get the first sample of American generosity when the guys there give me the exact key I need for free! Plus a NY city map and a good pump to put more pressure in the tires.

In Central Park I join the other cyclists on the what looks like a cycling/running highway that tours around the park. Some are casual cyclists, others look mean and are putting some serious watts. A triathlete in aerobars passes me by, and we chat a little about my adventure and his training. David also gives me some indications where I might want to go next and points me to west Manhattan on a cycle path that takes me south along the Hudson River.

Kilometers of cycling heaven pass by as I approach the financial district and WTC. The place is bustling with people, police every street corner and construction workers.
Battery Park, the southernmost point of Manhattan rewards me with a view of the Statue of Liberty (a bit far, but that's the closest I can get without a ferry) and 12 dollar hotdog&pretzel (price paid for being stupid enough not to ask the price before buying). I eat it while reading the plaque at the Castle Clinton, a fort built around 1810 that had more than 100 canons to defend New York from British forces but never saw any war action and functioned as a beer garden, exhibition hall, theater, public aquarium and finally a national monument. What a destiny!

It naturally comes a time when one has to take a leak. I anticipated this problem, but decided to wait until it occurs, to be forced to come with a more creative solution. Bushes look tempting, but there's no way I can do it without being seen. I spot a public toilet that has a bike stand and of course, some dubious fellows next to it. My bike lock is a joke, the criteria for taking it with me was weight, and I think you can cut it with scissors. Every serious biker in NY has a heavy duty chain. Luckily a guy with a laptop at a table nearby agrees to watch it for me. Thanks guy with laptop!

In West Village I enter the High Line, an old suspended rail road turned into promenade alley. I chill on bench trying to scribble down some notes in my journal and watching the busy street below when I am informed that the "physical presence" of bikes is not allowed, does not matter if somebody is on them or not, and kindly asked to go down and park it. I would but I don't have a NY grade lock and itt was time to move on anyways.

I then spot the Empire State and start navigating the crowded and trendy Chelsea streets towards it. This time I descend the bike, safer this way. I cannot look around and be attentive to erratic pedestrians, cabs, and crazy cyclists at the same time. This is the wildest city cycling I ever saw, the bike & ped stop lights are a waste of money, nobody looks at them. Only german tourists perhaps. I already gave in and started emulating the local behavior after repeatedly being the only one standing still at a red light.

I break my neck gazing up the Empire State building then enter 5th Avenue, the most expensive street in the world. A short break at Madison Square Park is needed to call home using Viber (I use a prepaid SIM with 3GB included and the 3G speed is great).
A  drizzle starts so with the rain jacket on, I proceed through Chinatown and over the Brooklyn Bridge which also has a nice bike path. Since it will get dark soon and I forgot my bike lights at the hostel, a decision is made to choose a bike route from Brooklyn to back to Queens.

Google navigation takes me there switching one bike path after another. I find it weird and cool at the same time that they have well marked bike lanes through industrial areas and neighborhoods that look abandoned with graffiti all over. Many cyclists too, a large number of them women. It's like being in Amsterdam and the Bronx simultaneously.

Back at the hostel I discover a new roommate, Christian from Texas, and that the two germans Martin&Fabian are gone. A shower is in order and a quick chat with Christian so I feel confident to leave the bike and my belongings in the room and go track down some food. I quickly lock down on a greasy but delicious burger which I eat in the hostel kitchen. A visit at a grocery store completes my provisions for the breakfast and the long ride I start in the morning towards Philadelphia: yogurt, granola bars, dried fruit, Cliff bars (my favorites) and a fruit salad.

So the day ends with me writing this down in the animated hostel lobby where people of all nations watch "the game" projected on a wall, chat at the bar, eat in the small kitchen, or sit at their laptops writing back home just like me.










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